Delhi Travel Guide – Learning to Love New Delhi

 Delhi is the first taste of India for so many travellers, and it was mine, too in October 2015.

Feeling unprepared for my trip, I turned to my guidebooks in a flurry of last minute reading, but they didn’t exactly set my heart at rest – filled, mostly, with instructions for avoiding Delhi’s infamous scams and tricksters (who it seemed from my reading would all be poised at the doors of Delhi airport to welcome me).

Directions from my tour company to absolutely not leave the airport terminal until I had been met by the ground rep did not exactly help.

Like many, I was nervous visiting New Delhi for the first time.

On my first trip to India I spent only two days in India’s capital, and did not have to plan my own things to do in Delhi. Along with the others in my group, I was guided through the winding lanes of Old Delhi to the fragrant and colourful spice market, towards the stunning Jameh Masjid mosque. My eyes gawking at the mass of dangling power cables and narrow streets as cycle rickshaws hurried past, threatening to keel over at any time in my jet-lagged brain.

Welcome to Delhi – in Old Delhi the streets, shops, people and power cables blend into one mish-mash.

But I also noticed the cold and prying eyes of Old Delhi – the cold, incessant stares that did not seem like the friendly stares one finds in other places in India. Was I not welcome here?

From that first visit, as part of a tour, to many subsequent visits to Delhi (often solo), it has taken me some time to appreciate – and even learn to love – Delhi.

Much of that learning has been with the help of tips from friends – both local Delhiites and international friends who know the city. So here is why Delhi is a firm favourite on my India itinerary, and some top tips for things to do in Delhi that will hopefully give you – too – that feeling of appreciation for this crazy city of contrasts.

Why Should you Visit Delhi?

Despite its less than wonderful reputation as a travel destination, to miss out on visiting Delhi during a trip to India would be a bit of a sin. There are plenty of reasons to given India’s capital a chance, from its food, to its lush parks in the south of the city, to its mish-mash of cultures and languages that represent the varied tapestry that the sub-continent of India covers.

Delhi is a summary of all that India is – from its super modern metro to its crumbling havelis (historic stately homes), from its dusty spice markets to its gleaming and luxurious shopping malls.

But if there’s one reason that stands out most to us as a reason to visit, it’s Delhi’s history. Delhi is one of the longest-serving capitals in the world, and has witnessed the rise and fall of empires. A walk through Delhi can take you past monuments from the late 1100s to the present day, in a city heavily influenced by the Mughals, the British and many others.

Is Delhi Safe?

The best answer to this question is that most visitors to Delhi are unlikely to encounter any serious problems in Delhi. You’re most likely to experience some staring and possibly getting short changed or approached by touts – that’s all.

The high profile rape cases from Delhi were isolated incidents, but Delhi is still not the easiest place in India for female travellers. Dressing conservatively is advised, and I do not recommend solo women to go out alone at night in Delhi (which may be on the more cautious side but this has served me well) – see more in our tips for women below.

It also makes a huge difference where you stay as to how you’re likely to feel about Delhi: Check out our where to stay in Delhi tips below!

READ MORE: A guide to Solo Female Travel in India – with tips from local women.

Air Pollution in Delhi

As I update this article in October 2019, Delhi is suffering yet another bout of toxic smog, as pleas to stop Diwali firecrackers fall on deaf ears, farmers in nearby regions burn their crops, and the government does little to work on the issue of environmental pollution.

Over the last few years, this has happened every year immediately after Diwali. The air in Delhi (and some other cities notably Agra and Varanasi) is a serious problem, although it causes a lot less harm to visitors than those who have to deal with it on a daily basis.

For that reason we don’t advise going to Delhi just after Diwali. Try to go earlier or later in winter if you can.

We also highly recommend packing an anti-pollution mask – you’ll need one that is effective at filtering out particulate (PM2.5) such as an N95 respirator.

Essential New Delhi Travel Tips – Know Before you Go

Delhi is the entry point to India for so many visitors, and yet despite its charms, it is not the easiest place to arrive in India. Touts and con-artists are used to tourists who’ve just arrived in the city – it’s not something to be nervous about, but more a reason to do your research and use common sense.

Here are some of our tried and tested Delhi travel tips for newcomers.

• If you’re staying in a mid-range or upscale hotel (which is a good idea), arrange an airport pickup directly with them for a smooth landing (more tips on airport transportation below).
• If you’re flying long-haul, build in some time to rest and take it easy – Delhi can be overwhelming, especially when you’re tired.
• Organise a tour for your first day in Delhi – Helps you to get your bearings and ease in to the pace of Delhi with the comfort of someone showing you around. (Book tours via reputable companies with good reviews, we don’t recommend using the guides loitering outside famous monuments in Delhi). See our recommendations below.
• Ignore offers of “free” tuk-tuk rides or shopping tours. Anything that is “free” will invariably lead to you being taken to a number of shops, where the driver will earn a commission for taking you there and on any of your purchases.
• Just after Diwali is not the ideal time to visit Delhi. Every year, the city gets covered in toxic smog. It’s better to visit later in the winter if you can.
• If you have a few minutes at the airport, get an Airtel or Vodafone Simcard for your mobile phone – as this will make travel and communication in India much easier! The booths are located inside the arrivals hall.
• Generally ignore people who come up to you at railway stations asking to see your ticket or at monuments – they are usually touts although their sales pitch may not come immediately.
• The key with Delhi is to be cautious but not paranoid – hold your head up high, walk like you know where you’re going, and you’ll likely find people leave you alone!